We got the best recommendations from Jon Brodd's friend, Chris Rowthorn.
http://www.insidekyoto.com
Love his itineraries and we followed his food guides too.
He doesn't go to all the typical/normal places.
We loved the restaurant chain I think OMEN - KODAJI tel 075 541 5007
(there is also OMEN-GINKAKUJI)
Everyone loves Nishiki Market
We LOVED the Flea Market that is on certain days only near one of the major temples.
Bike tour recommendation was a highlight.
From ILONA:
Kyoto - OMG - it's one of my favourite places! I know you didn't ask, but I can't help sending you these teeny tiny tips ;)
Favourite things we did (in 3 days) that we loved:
Night walking tour of the Gion area. We did the Gieko/Mieko tour (spotting the Geisha of the Kyoto region). Our guide was the best! I think she's what made the tour so good. It was so much fun.
Nishiki markets - visually divine.
We also did a 6 hour guided bike tour. It was just me and Ben and our guide. It was the best thing! We saw bamboo forests, the golden temple, the emperor's palace as well as a flee market in one temple's grounds and had lunch is a quaint little ryokan. It wouldn't have been the same without a guide.
FYI: One ryokan that was recommended to us, but was all booked out (we left it too late!) was: http://www.kikokuso.com/
Fredrik Cederroth sent me these tips before i went:
For some general information about travel in Japan
THE MIHO MUSEUM
The Miho museum is maybe one hour away from Kyoto but is fascinating. A rich old woman hired the architect who designed the Louvre. The building and the setting is more interesting than the collection however.
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