christmas in paris

Museums and Monuments Open Christmas and New Year’s Day Most of the city’s museums are closed on Christmas and New Year’s Day (both on Wednesday this year), and many close early on the 24th and 31st. But there are a handful of notable museums that remain open for your cultural enjoyment. Click on the links for exact opening hours, and book online in advance where possible to secure your spot. Open Christmas Day, December 25th Bourse du Commerce – Pinault Collection (1st arrondissement) Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme (3rd) Closes at 5pm on Dec 24th, 25th, 31st. Centre Pompidou (4th) Closes at 7pm on Dec 24th and 31st. Institut du Monde Arabe (5th) Mundolingua – Museum of Languages (6th) Eiffel Tower (7th) Closes at 9pm on Dec 31st. Musée Maillol (7th) Musée Jacquemart-André (8th) Grévin Wax Museum (9th) Atelier des Lumières (11th) Montparnasse Tower Observatory (15th) Musée de Montmartre (18th) Open New Year’s Day, January 1st Musée de l’Orangerie (1st arrondissement) Bourse du Commerce – Pinault Collection (1st) Conciergerie (1st) Centre Pompidou (4th) Institut du Monde Arabe (5th) Mundolingua – Museum of Languages (6th) Musée du Luxembourg (6th) Musée d’Orsay (7th) Eiffel Tower (7th) Musée Maillol (7th) Musée du Quai Branly (7th) Musée Jacquemart-André (8th) Grévin Wax Museum (9th) Atelier des Lumières (11th) Musée Méliès – Cinémathèque (12th) Montparnasse Tower Observatory (15th) Dali Paris Museum (18th) Musée de Montmartre (18th) Exceptional Opening: The Carnival Arts Museum Musée des Arts Forains – Carnival Arts Museum (December 27- January 5) Les Pavillons de Bercy, 53 Avenue des Terroirs de France, 12th Open daily 10am-6pm (last entry at 5:30pm). Tickets €22.80 for adults; €14.80 for kids 3-11; €16.80 for kids 12-18, students under 25, and everyone on January 1st. Includes two ride tickets. This private museum of antique carnival rides and decorations is usually only open for private events, but is exceptionally open for the holidays for the annual Festival du Merveilleux. Like nothing you’ve seen before, this massive venue is decorated in winter wonderland style, with authentic antique merry-go-rounds, carnival games, automatons, and live magicians and jugglers. There are circus-style performances four times each day. In the outdoor courtyard, also beautifully decorated, are food trucks serving hot foods and drinks like onion soup and mulled wine, so dress warmly to fully enjoy it! Book online in advance to secure your spot; tickets are discounted for the morning of January 1st. Christmas Light Displays and Decorations The City of Light really sparkles with holiday lights from mid-November through early January, particularly along the city’s popular shopping districts and market streets, where the elaborate window decorations make it the best time of year to lécher les vitrines (or lick the windows, the colloquial phrase for window shopping). Passage Jouffroy, 9th On the Faubourg Saint Honoré, 8th 2023 Illuminations on the Champs Elysées In the Latin Quarter, 5th Avenue Montaigne, 8th Lights on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées (November 24 – January 57) For Parisians, the holiday season officially kicks off with the official lighting ceremony on the Avenue des Champs Elysées on November 24th from 6pm, with special guest Tony Estanguet and musical entertainment by French marching band, Le Band’a Leo. The eco-friendly LED illuminations on all of the trees lining the avenue from Place de la Concord to the Arc de Triomphe (as well as many of the side streets) will light up every night from 5pm to midnight (with a special sparkling show on the hour). For 2024 there will also be the “largest Christmas tree in Paris”: 13.5 meters (44.3 feet) tall! Other Illuminated Streets Other chic shopping streets lit up for the holidays beginning in Novmber include the Avenue Montaigne (8th arrondissement, from November 24th), the Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré (8th arrondissement, from November 26th), and the Place Vendôme (1st arrondissement, from November 25th). You’ll also see decorations on many pedestrian market streets such as Rue Mouffetard (5th arrondissement), Rue Saint Louis-en-Ile (4th arrondissement), Bercy Village (from November 21st, see below), Rue Montorgueil (2nd), and throughout St-Germain-des-Prés (6th) and Montmartre (18th). Aside from the lights themselves, it’s the elaborate window decorations that really makes these streets so magical over the holidays! Bercy Village (November 21 – January 6) Cour Saint Emillion, 12th arrondissement, metro Cour St-Emilion The pedestrian-only Bercy Village is decorated with a sparkling canopy of lights and bouquets of mistletoe for this year’s holiday theme, “Kiss in Bercy”. There will be special parade events on weekend afternoons from December 7th to 22nd, including “light walkers” on stilts, swan and nutcracker dancers, ballet performances, and Père Noël with his elfin assistants and reindeer pulling an electric sleigh. All events are free. Check their website for specific times for the events, or just hang out at the shops, the large cineplex, or sidewalk cafés to enjoy the ambiance with a bit of vin chaud. Don’t Miss the Covered Passages If it’s raining, you can enjoy holiday window shopping in a gorgeous setting without getting wet in the city’s many historic Covered Passages. I think the Galerie Vivienne (2nd, metro Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre) and Passage Jouffroy (9th, metro Grands Boulevards) are the most magnificent, but the Passage Choiseul (2nd, metro Quatre Septembre) and Passage du Grand Cerf (2nd, metro Etienne Marcel), are also worth a peek. Department Store Holiday Windows & Events It’s traditional to check out the elaborately decorated shop windows of the Grands Magasins (department stores), which have little wooden platforms so the kids can get a better look. Like the Champs-Elysées, sidewalks are less crowded after the shops close, so aim for visiting in the hour after closing time to avoid the crowds. Galeries Lafayette Gourmet Galeries Lafayette window Galeries Lafayette Tree under the Dome FAO Schwartz at Galeries Lafayette All Aboard! at Printemps The train car windows at Printemps The train car windows at Printemps Photo shoot at Printemps BHV "A l'Heure de Noël" The windows at BHV Crowds at the windows at BHV An elf at BHV Galeries Lafayette (November 8 – December 31) 40 Boulevard Haussmann, 9th, metro Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette, Trinité or Opéra. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8:30pm, Sundays 11am-8pm. Closed December 25th and January 1st. To celebrate their 130th anniversary, Galeries Lafayette Haussmann has hired Swiss designer Kevin Germanier, known for his maximalist-yet-eco-conscious fashions, to decorate this year’s windows using 100% upcycled materials (from previous window displays). They’re rather…psychedelic! The immense Christmas tree beneath the Art Nouveau dome is more like a minimalist frame of a tree with 20,000 led lights that are programmed to twinkle in a magical sound and light show. Items from FAO Schwartz are showcased on the 5th floor children’s department (which you can skip if you’re visiting from NYC). Kids can have their photo taken with Père Noël on the 5th floor for €10 starting December 7th from 11am-7pm. If you’re not afraid of heights, there’s also a free “Glasswalk”, a 9-meter long glass walkway on the third-floor mezzanine that extends into the middle of the space beneath the famous Art Nouveau dome, La Coupole, for an immersive experience (and dramatic selfies, if you’re into that). Reserve your five-minute time slot a week in advance. This year there are also guided tours of the windows, Christmas tree and holiday archives in English before the store opens to the public on Nov 17th and Dec 1st, €18/Adults, €8/children (book here). Le Printemps (November 7th – January 5th) 64 Boulevard Haussmann, 9th, metro Havre-Caumartin or Auber Open daily 10am – 8pm (Sunday from 11am); open 10am-6pm on December 24th and 31st. Closed Dec 25th and Jan 1st. Right next to Galeries Lafayette, Printemps aims for a more upscale clientele. Their theme for this year’s 100th anniversary of holiday windows is a Christmas train, “The Printemps Express”. Each window is a wagon car in a snowy landscape with over 100 passengers made from recycled fabrics (are we seeing a trend here?) complete with a Belle Époque train station, a dining car set up for a festive dinner with guests in evening dress, and a “Haussmann Suite” wagon that is their version of “discreet luxury” showing passengers being pampered in preparation for the festivities. These are my favorite windows this season. Printemps now has two “Quartier des Jouets” dedicated to toys and games: on the 5th floor of Printemps de la Beauté for babies and toddlers, and on the 7th floor of Printemps de l’Homme for older children and teens, along with photo ops with Santa on weekends from 2-7pm in December (no reservations, everyone gets a free printed photo). BHV Marais (November 6 – December 31) 52 rue de Rivoli, 4th, metro Hôtel de Ville or Châtelet. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sundays 11am-7pm, until 6:30pm on the 24th and 31st. Closed Christmas and New Year’s Day. “L’Heure de Noël” is BHV’s theme this year, with colorful illustrations by the French artist Noémie Limistic in the windows with a very “It’s a Small World” feel. Not nearly as elaborate (or interesting) as windows in previous years. The best reason to visit is the “Chocolat chaud de Noël” at the café on the 5th floor. Pere Noël will be welcoming kids up there Wednesdays and weekends December 1st-23rd. [Note: you may want to visit the window displays during opening hours, since people setting up tents along the sidewalk at night block some of the windows.] Le Bon Marché (November 8th – December 31st) 24 rue de Sèvres, 7th, metro Sèvres-Babylone Open daily 10am-7:45pm (Sunday from 11am); until 6:30pm on the 24th and 31st. Closed on Christmas and New Year’s Day. The famous Rive Gauche department store has decided to play it safe with its 2024 holiday theme, “Noël à Paris!”, featuring glittering miniature Eiffel Towers with white and gold decorations in the windows along Rue de Sèvres and throughout the store. The store’s holiday catalog is illustrated with adorable Eiffel Tower cartoons by the Parisian artist Soledad Bravi. Don’t forget to check out La Grande Epicerie next door for unique gourmet gifts (open 8:30am-9pm, Sunday 10am-8pm). And back by popular demand, Le Bon Marché will be hosting contemporary circus performances at nights after the store is closed through December 31st, Entre Chiens et Louves by Cirque Le Roux, with tickets €50-75 depending on seating. Samaritaine (November 8 – January 5) 9 Rue de la Monnaie, 1st, metro Pont Neuf or Louvre-Rivoli. Open daily 10am-8pm, including Christmas and New Year’s Day. Tropical flora and fauna decorate the most bling-bling of the Parisian Grands Magasins this holiday season for the “Paris Jardin d’Hiver” enchanted winter garden theme. The windows along the Rue de Rivoli are decorated in urban jungle style with oversized flowers, butterflies and some rather frightening scenes right out of “Little Shop of Horrors”. Skip this store if you have kids; not only do they have the least “child-friendly” Christmas windows in all of Paris, there’s no toy or children’s department! La Samaritaine's "Winter Garden" theme Flowers and ...chains? Flowers and fashions at La Samaritaine There are no platforms for children at La Samaritaine Outdoor Light Trail Experiences Open-air light and sculpture installations have become quite trendy in Paris, with new ones opening up each Christmas (and judging by the price and the size of the crowds filing through the scenes, it’s not hard to see why). While magical to experience at night, don’t expect scenes with Père Noël or Winter Wonderland decorations. This year’s shows include Jurassic wildlife, endangered animals, dinosaurs, and “immersive” art. For those who are sick of Santas and elves, these events are not specifically holiday-themed like the Christmas Markets. Also, note that these outdoor events remain open even if it’s freezing cold and raining; no refunds possible unless they have to close for strong storms. So bundle up and pack the toe warmers! Jurassique en voie d’Illumination at the Jardin des Plantes (November 20 – January 19) Place Valhubert, 5th arrondissement, metro Gare d’Austerlitz. Light show open Wed-Sun from 6-10pm (last entry 9pm); and open DAILY 6-10pm from Dec 21-Jan 6 (exceptionally closed December 24th). The theme at the Jardin des Plantes botanical gardens is “Jurassic Illuminated” featuring more than a hundred light structures representing the fascinating biodiversity of the Jurassic era. And you’ll actually learn something: for example, did you know there weren’t any Tyrannosaurus rex, Triceratops, flowers or grasses yet? Unlike other shows in Paris, you can see this one for free in the daytime during regular garden opening hours, but will need tickets to see them lit up at night. Also, unlike the others, you get to walk freely throughout the gardens to see the sculptures instead of being herded along a specific path. Tickets same as last year: €15-€18, free for kids under 3. Family rate €60 for two adults and two kids 3-12 years old. Buy tickets online here. L’Odyssée Lumineuse at the Parc Floral (November 30-January 19) Parc Floral, Bois de Vincennes, 12th arrondissement, metro Château de Vincennes. Open Tues-Sun 5:30pm-10pm; open DAILY Dec 21-Jan 6, including Christmas and New Year’s Day. For those who prefer the East side of Paris, the 2nd annual “Luminous Odyssey” is an illuminated path through a series of scenes depicting endangered animals like tigers, polar bears, and mythical creatures such as dragons and unicorns, with a nod towards environmental awareness. It also features a unique light and sound show that simulates the Northern Lights. The most affordable of the bunch, tickets are just €13 for adults and €11 for kids 3-12). Note the walk from the metro to the park entrance is about 15 minutes (it’s on the other side of the château). Lantern Festival: The Dinosaur Ball at the Jardin d’Acclimatation (November 29 – March 2) Carrefour des Sablons, Bois de Boulogne, 16th arrondissement, metro Les Sablons. Festival open Wed-Sun 6-9:30pm; open DAILY Dec 21-Jan 6, including Christmas and New Year’s Day. Dinosaurs are the stars in this 6-kilometer walk through 24 different scenes featuring over 2000 lanterns. There will be 40 species of dinosaurs from the Mesozoic era in spectacular settings, including tyrannosaurs, brontosaurs, velociraptors, triceratops, allosaurs and diplodocus. And because you’re also in an amusement park, there’s a giant Ferris wheel and two new ‘Jurassic Island’ digital attractions (extra cost): a VR Xperience and a 360° Xperience immersive film. Dated tickets €18 (€12 for kids 4-11); undated tickets €25 (19 for kids); free for kids under 4; €54 for a family with two adults and two kids 4-11. Purchase tickets here. Lumières en Seine at the Parc de Saint Cloud (November 15-January 12) Domaine Nationale de Saint-Cloud, Grille Clémenceau, accessible by metro Pont de Saint-Cloud, then cross the bridge. Open Wed-Sun 5-11pm (last entry 9:15pm); open DAILY Dec 18-Jan 6th (but closed on December 11th, 24th and 31st). This light show takes place for the third year at the Parc de Saint-Cloud, a forest in the west suburbs of Paris. It’s a bit pricey, but offers 25 “immersive” scenes with illuminated paintings, sculptures, “celestial curtains”, giant anemones, and a majestic cathedral, alongside fire shows and fountains. There’s a Grand Carrousel (€2.50 extra) and several snack bars with everything from pretzels and hot dogs to hamburgers and hot drinks. Open “freedom” tickets are €28 (€20 for kids 3-11), and specific time slots are €20-23 depending on the date (€16-18 for kids). Family tickets are €65-72 (for two kids 3-11, two adults). Note the trails may pose some challenges for wheelchairs and strollers (rocks, hills, etc), but there are staff standing by to help in tricky passages. Let’s Move! Ice Skating & Dancing & the Santa Run Skating at the Tuileries Skating at Tuileries Ice Skating There are several open-air and indoor ice rinks announced for the 2024-2025 holiday season. They all require skaters to wear gloves. Rent skates on-site or bring your own: Tuileries Marché de Noël, 1st arrondissement, Metro Tuileries (November 16th – January 5th). A 1200m² skating rink in the center of the Tuileries Christmas Market (see more info on the market below). €6 for kids, €10 for adults. Le Grand Palais des Glaces, 8th arrondissement, Metro Champs-Élysées – Clemenceau (December 14th – January 8th). The biggest indoor ice rink in the world (they say) is back with the reopening of the Grand Palais. Enjoy 3000m² of skating under the massive glass roof, with DJ sets, disco balls, and a special area cordoned off for the youngest kids. Three time slots you can reserve: 10am-1pm (€25 adults/€15 kids), 2-7pm (€30 adults/€15 kids), and 8pm-2am (€36 flat rate). Closes at 7pm on Dec 24th and 31st. Tickets can be purchased on-site or online (recommended). Marché de Noël at la Défense, metro/RER Esplanade de La Défense (November 22nd – January 5th) The largest Christmas market in the region at the foot of La Grande Arche also has a 450m² open-air ice rink (see more info on the market below). €10/person (€5 kids under 13), €2 to rent skates; gloves required (they can be purchased). You’ll also find smaller ice rinks at the Village de Noël at Parc de la Villette (November 23rd – December 29th), the Noël Gaulois at the Parc Asterix (December 21 – January 5), and at Le Grand Noël at the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte (November 16th – January 5th). Ballroom Dancing Those in the mood for an elegant spin around the dancefloor – in period dress or not – can participate in one of the many ballroom dancing events over the holidays, organized by the Carnet de Bals association. Belle Époque Ball at the Hôtel de la Marine (November 30th) Hôtel de la Marine, 1 Place de la Concorde, 1st arrondissement, from 3-6pm. Free entry with registration. Step back in time with dances like quadrilles, waltzes, and polkas in the grand Cour d’Honneur from 3pm to 6pm. Period costumes (1890–1910) are encouraged but optional, and changing facilities are available from 2pm (only for members of Carnet de Bals). Note this is OUTDOORS in the building’s courtyard, so bundle up! Ball of the Century at the Château de Versailles (December 9th) ** SORRY, TICKETS SOLD OUT NOV 20th ** Château de Versailles – Galleries , RER Versailles Château Rive Gauche, from 7pm – 1:30am. Tickets €200-€500. This costumed ball celebrates the glamour of the Second Empire, Belle Époque, and Roaring Twenties through immersive performances, elegant dancing, and many surprises to delight guests. Highlights include dance demonstrations in the Galerie des Batailles, a ballet performance in the Hall of Mirrors by the Etoiles of the Opéra de Paris, live concert piano and singing, theatrical encounters, and a fireworks display you get to watch through the palace windows. Come and dance the tempête (tempest or Tom Pate), waltzes, the Tango, Foxtrot, American jig, Pol Jones, Charleston and other ballroom dances that will be explained to you on the evening by the Carnet de Bals dancers. The night concludes with a modern DJ after-party. Costumes are required: Tuxedo, bow tie, dress shoes for men, and dresses inspired by the Roaring Twenties or ball gown/prestige evening dresses for the ladies. No masks. Three ticket levels for different services. Second Empire Christmas Ball at the Hôtel de la Marine (December 28th) Hôtel de la Marine, 1 Place de la Concorde, 1st arrondissement, from 3-6pm. Free entry with registration. Get out your top hats and crinolines for the third and final ball of the season celebrating Napoléon III and Empress Eugenie’s Second Empire style, with dances like quadrilles, waltzes, and polkas in the grand Cour d’Honneur from 3pm to 6pm. Period costumes (1848-1870) are encouraged but optional, and changing facilities are available from 2pm (only for members of Carnet de Bals). Note this is OUTDOORS in the building’s courtyard, so bundle up! New Year’s Eve Ball: A Night on Valhalla (December 31st) 94 Boulevard August Blanqui, 13th arrondissement, from 7pm-6am. Tickets €200 (earlybird price €180 until Dec 1st). Ring in 2025 with the dancers of the Carnet de Bals under the theme of Valhalla: “Dream of Nordic legends, Norwegian and German mythologies, Thor, Wagner… and you will see your Teutonic crinoline and your lederhosen!” But traditional Second Empire ball gowns are also perfectly acceptable for a night of ballroom dancing. “Whether you are a non-dancer, a beginner or an experienced dancer, you will be able to take part in the evening.” The all-inclusive price includes the dinner, unlimited Champagne, and entertainment during the ball. The Santa Run The 46th annual Corrida de Noël d’Issy-les-Moulineaux (Issy Santa Run) takes place on December 15th with thousands of children and adults dressed in Santa outfits running through the Parisian suburb of Issy-les-Moulineaux. There are 3k, 5k, and 10k races, and a 1.5k stroll. At the finish there is hot chocolate…and mulled wine! Registration is still open, but spots are limited! Amusement Parks Christmas at Disneyland Paris Disney Teacup Ride Disneyland Paris Christmas Jardin d’Acclimatation in the Bois de Boulogne (November 23 – January 12) Open since 1860, this is the oldest amusement park in Paris, and one of the most charming, especially for young children. Rides are a “softer” version of what you might see at the local fair, with a steampunk aesthetic. There’s a new Ferris Wheel for 2024, and the usual puppet shows (guignols), petit train, bumper cars, arcade games, several playgrounds, and – for the holidays — the Enchanted River ride illuminated with Christmas decorations, polar animals, and twinkly lights. Accessible via metro at Sablons station. All-inclusive day passes are €27-€46 (special rates for families of four or more), or you can purchase an entry ticket (€5-€7) and buy individual tickets for each ride (€4.50 each, or €50 for 15). Open daily 11am-6pm (from 10am Wednesdays and Dec 21 – Jan 5). The Lantern Festival: The Dinosaur Ball takes place each evening after the regular park closes, from 6-9:30pm November 29th through March 2nd (see Outdoor Light Trails for info and ticket prices). Disney’s Enchanted Christmas at Disneyland Paris (Open daily November 9th – January 6th) Disneyland Paris celebrates Christmas each year with holiday decorations, a 78-ft-tall Christmas tree on Main Street, and “Mickey’s Dazzling Christmas Parade”, as well as a New Year’s Eve party when the park is open until 1am. There are special shows on the different stages, Disney Christmas souvenirs (of course), and some Christmas Market stands. Accessible via RER A from Paris (45 minutes). Ticket prices have gone up since last year: one-day/one park €73-€113 (€68-€104 for kids 3-11); and €148 (€137for kids) for December 31st. See some photos from previous years here: http://www.secretsofparis.com/heathers-secret-blog/disneyland-paris-for-the-holidays.html Noël Gaulois at Parc Asterix (December 21 – January 5) This very French amusement park resisted for a long time, but now have their own Christmas event with fake snow-covered menhirs, an illuminated enchanted forest of giant mushrooms and mistletoe, a Gaulish Père Noël at the Christmas Village, the Frozen Valley of snowmen (and perhaps “real” snow?), and of course the Gallic Christmas parade. The small ice rink is back with free skate rental for kids 5 and up. This year’s new ride is a snow slide, La Glissade d’Obélix. Every evening ends with a 20-minute fireworks show. Accessible via RER B to Charles de Gaulle airport, then a dedicated park shuttle (every 30 minutes). Tickets €51-€54/adults, €48-€54/kids 3-11 (under 3 are free); €48/each for 5 or more people/families. Open daily 11am-8pm (until 7pm on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve). There’s evening dining and entertainment on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve for those booked into the park’s hotels. Beyond Paris: Christmas at the Château Vaux le Vicomte Château Vaux-le-Vicomte Chantilly Chateau Château Vaux-le-Vicomte The King’s Tour at the Château de Versailles (December 14th – January 4th) is an immersive hour-long visit and show throughout the Grand Apartments and Hall of Mirrors, with fireworks, musicians, dancers, singers, fencers and actors, and even Marie-Antoinette! Six shows per night, tickets €32-€49. Le Grand Noël at the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte (November 16th – January 5th) celebrates its 19th annual holiday event with Christmas decorations inspired by our favorite childhood fairy tales, including a recreation of Alice in Wonderland’s famous tea ceremony by renowned pastry chef Bastien Blanc-Tailleur. The gardens are also illuminated, with roasting marshmallows and mulled wine, and a 12-minute laser show projected onto the château façade three times each night. This year there are two new additions: an ice rink in the gardens (€5, skates included), and an hour-long immersive theatre show with actors – in French – in the château, inspired by Dickens’ “A Christmas Carol” (four performances each Wednesday, additional ticket fee €14 for adults, €11 for kids under 13; reservations necessary). Tickets €17 just for the gardens, or €24 for the entire estate (€19 for students and kids 4-17). Shuttles from Melun train station (45 minutes south of Paris). Open 10:30am-6:30pm Wed-Sun from Nov 16th-Dec 20th, and daily from Dec 21st-Jan 5th; closes at 4:30pm on Dec 24th and 31st. Closed Dec 25th and Jan 1st. Noël au Château at the Château de Chantilly (November 30 – January 5) with Christmas decorations throughout the castle, museum, and the formal French gardens. Père Noël will welcome children on weekends and Wednesdays, including December 25th, from 2-5pm. A children’s Christmas choir features holiday carols by young singers aged 6 to 9 in the main courtyard of the castle on December 7th from 2:30-3:30pm (weather permitting). A mini-market of chalets will be set up just inside the château entrance gates serving hot chocolate, crêpes and other sweets from December 21st-January 5th (closed Tuesdays). Tickets to access the château, museum and gardens are €18/adults, €14.50/kids 7-25 (or €32/€26 with the Christmas show, but it’s only in French). Special family discount of €37 for 2 adult tickets and 2 child tickets with the code: CHANTILLYFAMILLE24 (if you purchase through the tourism office website). There’s also an inclusive ticket for round-trip TER train from Gare du Nord to Chantilly that includes entrance to the château/museum/gardens for €27 (€1 for kids under 12), purchase here. Festival de Noël at the Château de Breteuil (December 15th) The French formal gardens and all of the rooms of this château where Perrault’s fairy tales were written are decorated and illuminated for Christmas, with Christmas trees, toy trains, Père Noël strolling through the grounds, and “nativity scenes from around the world” on display in the chapel. The decorations will remain throughout December. Located 35km southwest of Paris in the Vallée de Chevreuse, accessible only by car. Tickets €17 – €19 (prices on the English page haven’t been updated for 2024). Christmas Markets, Holiday Bazaars & Gift Shopping Christmas Markets, aka Marchés de Noël are traditionally found in the French region of Alsace (the most famous is the Strasbourg Christmas Market), but Paris has quite a few Christmas markets of its own, some small with just a few wooden chalets, others huge affairs with rides and entertainment. All of them are free, and sell a selection of holiday gifts and decor, mulled wine and other gourmet goodies. The latest trend is seeing a lot more emphasis on unique themes such as sustainability, quality and artisanal products made in France, and markets supporting charities. This isn’t an exhaustive list (see the Paris Tourism Office for that), but it includes many of the ones worth crossing town to visit, as well as special holiday sales benefitting local charities. Most of these markets are usually closed on Christmas Day and close early on Christmas Eve. Marché Notre Dame Marché Notre Dame Mulled wine at the Marché Notre Dame Roasted chestnuts at the Marché Notre Dame The Ferris Wheel at the Marché de Noël des Tuileries Ice skating at the Marché de Noël des Tuileries Marché de Noël des Tuileries Marché de Noël des Tuileries So many sweets... So much chocolate... So much cheese... Heather at the Marché de Noël des Tuileries Traditional Christmas Markets (Outdoors) La Magie de Noël at the Jardin des Tuileries (November 16 – January 5) In the Tuileries Gardens along the Rue de Rivoli, 1st arrondissement, metro Tuileries, Concorde, or Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre; open daily 11am-11:45pm (until 8pm on 24th and 31st), free entry. This is the biggest Christmas Market within Paris, combining the same carnival rides you see over the summer (but decorated with Christmas garlands), a Ferris wheel (enclosed, €15/adults, €10/kids 2-10 years old, cash only), a smallish 1200m² skating rink (€10 for adults, €6 for kids, everyone mixed in together), live music, and a village of 80 wooden chalets selling decorations, toys, gifs, and gourmet treats. A special food market sells plenty of hot food and drinks to enjoy seated at picnic tables or as you walk around. They are supposed to focus on quality and products made in France (there are even craftspeople making their wares right at the market), but conform where the items are made before purchasing. Marché de Noël at la Défense (November 14 – December 29) On the Esplanade of La Défense (eastern suburb of Paris), metro/RER La Défense. Open Sun-Thurs 11am-9pm, Fri 11am-10pm and Sat 10am-10pm. Closes at 6pm on Christmas Eve, closed Christmas Day. Free entry. The largest Christmas market in the region overlooks Paris from the foot of La Grande Arche. Plan on spending several hours, if not the entire afternoon here! This year there will be 250 chalets selling all of the standard Christmas decorations, gifts and regional foods (all drinks come in a returnable cup with €1 deposit). The famous stall selling Santon figurines will be back, as well as stands with a focus on local artisans and a 1000m² tent selling only decorations and gifts “Made in France”. Like last year, there are DJ music “afterworks” weekdays from 6-9pm. Santa will be there to welcome children Wednesday and weekends. New for 2024: a 14-meter tall Christmas tree covered in LED lights, a tethered hot air balloon, a cozy “Quebecois Village” in partnership with the City of Quebec, and a huge 450m² skating rink with real ice, open November 22nd until January 5th (after the market closes), €10/person (€5 kids under 13), €2 to rent skates; gloves required (they can be purchased). Marché de Noël Paris Notre Dame (November 29-December 25) Square Vivani, 5th arrondissement, metro St-Michel or Cluny-Sorbonne. Open daily 10am-8pm. The newly reopened Notre Dame Cathedral is the magnificent backdrop for this small but charming market just across the river. There are two dozen artisan stands selling crafts, décor, gifts (all made in France), and a few gourmet foods to keep you warm. Santa is there each day for free photo ops. Note that the small space and proximity to Notre Dame mean this market gets VERY crowded on weekend afternoons. Marché de Noël de Saint-Germain-des-Près (November 25 – January 5) Along the Boulevard St-Germain-des-Près, 6th arrondissement, metro St-Germain-des-Prés or Odéon. Open daily 11am-8pm. This market is a handful of little wooden chalets along the boulevard at the foot of St-Germain-des-Prés church along the boulevard, in one of the poshest shopping districts of Paris, usually the same artisans who are there throughout the year (you’ll see the same chalets in the summer, too). Perhaps I wouldn’t go out of my way for this one, but it’s a nice detour if you’re in the neighborhood anyway. Alsace Fête Noël at the Gare de l’Est (November 29-December 15) In front of the Gare de l’Est train station along Rue d’Alsace, 10th arrondissement, metro Gare de l’Est, open 9am-7:30pm (from 10am Sunday). The 42nd annual traditional Alsatian market sells specialties like pretzels (or “bretzels” in France), Pain d’Epices gingerbread, Gâteaux de Noël (Bredala), and regional wines. Although every Christmas market has an Alsatian stand (or five), this one is worth the detour if you’re looking for the most authentic brands, such as the Maison Alsacienne du Biscuit from Colmar (try the baerewecke cake!) or Bertrand Brucker’s “Tante Germaine” fresh Alsatian pasta (spätzles, knepfles, raviolis, gnocchi and potato pancakes). One thing you won’t find is vin chaud (seems they don’t have the authorization to serve alcohol). Village Noël de la Tour Eiffel (December 7 – January 5) Along Quai Jacques Chirac, 7th arrondissement, metro Bir Hakeim or RER Pont Alma, from 11am-11pm. This market along the upper quays of the Seine from the Eiffel Tower to the Quai Branly Museum has 60 stands selling all kinds of holiday food and gifts – jewelry, soaps, chocolates, regional specialties, toys, bags, candles, ornaments, etc. — throughout the season and into the new year. Village de Noël at Place de la Concorde (December 14 – January 5) Place de la Concorde, 8th arrondissement, metro Concorde. Open daily 10am-9pm (closes earlier Christmas Eve; closed Christmas Day). Since the esplanade in front of the Paris City Hall is being renovated until the spring, the municipal Village de Noël is planning to move temporarily to the Place de la Concorde, right next to the Jardin des Tuileries (and its much larger Marché de Noël). It will have the usual “enchanted forest” of Christmas trees to set the mood, a “snow mountain” for kids to sled down, chalets selling mulled wine and pretzels, “windows” decorated with Lego scenes, and six chalets gifts “Made in Paris”. Santa will be there Wednesdays and weekends 3-9pm. Marché de Noël in Montmartre (December 22 – January 5) Place des Abbesses, 18th arrondissement, metro Abbesses or Pigalle. Daily 10am-8pm. This local market just outside the metro station (and the “I Love You” Wall) is run by the local artisans’ and shopkeepers’ association, with decorated pine trees along the Rue Lepic and stands with traditional Christmas crafts and foods. Père Noël will be there every Sunday from 11am-1pm to have photos with the kids. Carrousel in front of the Hôtel de Ville Christmas Decorations at the Hôtel de Ville One of the chalet boutiques at the Hôtel de Ville Marché de Noël at La Défense Marché de Noël at La Défense Christmas Markets for a Good Cause Les Féeries d’Auteuil (December 7-15) 40 rue Jean-de-La-Fontaine, 16th arrondissement, metro Jasmin. Open daily 11am-7pm (weekends from 10:30am, Thurs until 8pm). Indoors and Outdoors. This festive Christmas Market in the courtyard gardens of the Fondation d’Auteuil welcomes carefully selected exhibitors, craftsmen and designers from all over France, as well as a choir, puppet shows, old fashioned merry-go-round, food stands (oysters!), and an indoor flea market. You can also buy your Christmas tree here, from small to tall sizes. There will also be nativity scenes created by the children of the foundation. All proceeds support the Fondation d’Auteuil’s child protection services and teen training programs. Upcycling Christmas Market by Stüdio Emmaüs (November 20 – December 31) Stüdio Emmaüs, 14 rue Château d’Eau, 10th arrondissement, metro Jacques Bonsergent or République. Open Tues-Sun 11am-8pm. Indoors. Find some of the most unique holiday gifts at this market selling 100% upcycled fashions and home décor created by a collective of talented designers. For those who can speak French, you can also join the weekend upcycling workshops. All proceeds help Emmaüs’s mission to help those in need with clothing, housing, and finding employment. Marché de Noël Handisolidaire 2024 (December 6-7) Esat Menilmontant, 40, 44, and 52 Rue des Panoyaux, 20th arrondissement, metro Ménilmontant. Open Fri 11am-5 :30pm, Sat 10am-7pm. Indoors. This holiday market has several artisan stands selling ceramics, wooden toys, silk scarves, mosaics and jewelry. Entertainment includes bingo tournaments, live hip-hop and capoeira shows, and music concerts. ESAT Ménilmontant supports the integration of people with mental or psychological disabilities through diverse vocational activities like woodworking, pottery, and catering. Free entry. Lions Club Marché de Noël (December 6-8) La Halle des Blancs Manteaux, 48 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th arrondissement, metro Hôtel de Ville, open Fri noon-7:30pm, Sat 11am-7:30pm, Sun 11am-7pm. Indoors. The Lions Club of Paris-Ile-de-la-Cité is hosting its 19th Christmas Market in the Marais with 50 stands selling all kinds of holiday gifts and decorations, with sales benefitting the causes supported by the Lions Club: prevention of blindness and diabetes, fight against childhood cancer and hunger, preservation of the environment. Grande Vente de Noël (December 14) Paris Event Center, 20 Ave de la Porte de la Villette, 19th arrondissement, metro Porte de la Villette. Open 10am-8pm. Indoors. A massive sale of 100 major brands of women’s/men’s fashion, leather goods, shoes, gastronomy, household appliances, toys, beauty, decoration, etc. for the benefit of the Mécénat Chirurgie Cardiaque (children’s cardiac surgery charity). This is the first year it’s in this location on the edge of the city; try and go earlier in the day if you’re unfamiliar with the area. Free entry, but reserve your time slot here: https://www.billetweb.fr/grande-vente-de-noel-2024 Art & Artisan Christmas Markets AAWE Holiday Bazaar at the American Church (November 23) 65 Quai d’Orsay, 7th arrondissement, metro Pont de l’Alma. Open noon-6pm, free entry. Indoors. The AAWE (Association of Women in Europe) is hosting its annual holiday bazaar featuring local, women-owned businesses, artisanal products and service offerings, AAWE handicrafters and home-baked goods, luxury and gently-used items. Free entry, RSVP required. Julbasar at the Swedish Church (November 29-December 1) Eglise Suédoise, 9 Rue Médéric, 17th arrondissement, metro Courcelles. Open Fri-Sat 11am-7pm, Sun 12:30-5pm. Indoors. The Swedish Church of Paris has an annual Christmas bazaar for three days, featuring Swedish specialties such as lingonberry jam, gingerbread, Swedish sweets, handicrafts, candles, candlesticks, Christmas decorations, Christmas cards, Christmas ornaments, arts and crafts, and beautiful everyday goods. Noël à l’Anglaise at St George’s Anglican Church (November 30) 7 rue Auguste Vacquerie, 16th arrondissement, metro Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile or George V, open 11am-4pm. Indoors. This annual church Christmas Bazaar features British specialties, puddings and cakes, books in English, clothing at low prices, a kids’ corner, and other baked goods. Marché Flocon de Noël (December 7-8, 14-15) Rue Ferdinand Flocon, 18th arrondissement, metro Jules Joffrin, open Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 10am-6pm. The boutiques of the pedestrian-only Rue Flocon are hosting their second annual holiday market with artisans, local cheese shop, boutique of original illustrations, dried flowers and designer vases, vintage gifts and tableware, a Sardinian grocery store, festive cupcakes, gourmet food stands, and entertainment throughout the day. Le Village de Noël Wecandoo (December 7-8) Atelier Wecandoo, Viaduc des Arts, 23 avenue Daumesnil, 12th arrondissement, metro Bastille or Gare de Lyon, open 2-7pm. Indoors. Wecandoo is a platform that organizes workshops with French artisans throughout the year. Their Christmas Village dedicated to craftsmanship will be selling ceramics, jewelry, and leather goods made by their artisans. They also have workshops and demonstrations promoting their artisan courses in gardening, jewelry making, cheese making, and metalwork. You can purchase gift certificates for their workshops, over 3000 artisans throughout France! Free entry. Expos de Noël (December 7-8) Goutte d’Or Quartier, 18th arrondissement, metro Barbès-Rochechouart or Château-Rougue, open 2-8pm. Indoors/Outdoors. Five artist galleries in the Goutte d’Or district of Paris (also called Little Africa) will be showcasing artists and artisans and their unique, hand-made creations. Find the map here. L’Etrange Noël des Créateurs (December 8 & 15) Le Bouillon, 6 rue Planchat, 20th arrondissement, metro Nation or Avron, open 2-8pm. Indoors. This market in a craft beer bar features around 20 artists and creators showcasing whimsical, glamorous, fantasy and rock-themed fashion, accessories, decor, toys, books, and more. There’s a free concert at 5 pm. Free entry. Le Klin D’oeil #22 (December 14-15) Carreau du Temple, 4 rue Eugène Spuller, 3rd arrondissement, metro Temple. Open Sat 11am-8pm, Sun 11am-7pm. Indoors. This trendy Christmas market is back with a mix of 80 créateurs (home decor, clothing and accessories, prints, ceramics, children’s items), tattoo stands, upcycling stands, and a food court. Christmas Markets Celebrating Sustainability & Diversity Japanese Market at the Espace Cinko Heather at the Hasard Ludique Marché de Noël Entrance to the Marché de Noël (down on the old Petite Ceinture rail tracks) Hasard Ludique Marché de Noël Stands at the Marché de Noël Salon Idées Japon at the Espace Cinko (November 20-23) 12-18, Passage Choiseul, 2nd arrondissement, metro Quatre Septembre or Pyramides. Open 11:30am-7pm. Indoors. While not specifically marketed as a Christmas market, this three-day Japanese marketplace featuring 45 artisans, artists and specialists is a great place to pick up some unique holiday gifts: accessories, art, jewelry, ceramics, decoration, stationary and art paper, books, fabrics and kimonos. Downstairs you’ll find ten food stands selling mochis, tea, sake, miso, pastries, etc. Le Marché Noël Zero Waste at La Maison Zéro Déchet(November 30) 1 passage Emma Calvé (Rue de Reuilly), 12th arrondissement, metro Reuilly-Diderot, open 10am-7pm. Indoors. This “zero waste and upcycling” Christmas market is in the Faubourg St-Antoine district (in former military barracks). There will be artisans selling zero-waste creations (cosmetics, jewelry, etc) and upcycled accessories (bags, kits, etc), a second-hand market of clothes, toys, and decor, and the zero-waste snack bar will be open with vin chaud. Free entry, indoors. Les Marchés d’Hiver at Le Pavillon des Canaux (December 1, 7, 14) 39 Quai de Loire, 19th arrondissement, metro Riquet or Jaurès. Open 11am-7pm, indoors. Similar to Hasard Ludique and REcyclerie, this historic pavilion overlooking the Canal St-Martin is hosting three different holiday markets this December: a Pop-up Artisanal de Noël — Libre et Sauvage (Dec 1st); Gang Market of creators’ arts and crafts (Dec 7th); and the Queerxmas Pop-up by Calor Ultra Gliss! (Dec 14th) with 12 artisans selling illustrations, textiles, ceramics, photography, zines, cheeky gifts, and jewelry. The adorable café will be open throughout the day as usual. Le REcyclerie, 83 Blvd Ornano, 18th arrondissement, metro Porte de Clignancourt, open 11am-7pm. Indoors/outdoors. For the third year in a row, Le REcyclerie is hosting its popular Eco-Villages de Noël three weekends in December promoting responsible, ethical, and multicultural shopping. Throughout the month they will also have a little chalet serving fondu and vegetarian raclette, as well as a hot drinks bar for vin chaud and hot chocolate. The Eco-Village Féministe (December 7-8) About twenty stands of eco-responsible initiatives led by women, conferences, literary meetings and workshops on the themes of eco-feminism, self-ecology and “interSEXionality”, brought to you by Low Carbon France. Noël Rebelle (December 14-15) is the vegan Eco-Village de Noël organized again this year by Franck of Vegan Tourist Paris, featuring all kinds of vegan foods, gifts, chocolates, accessories, cookbooks, a vegan raclette stand, and the REcyclerie restaurant will be serving vegan meals for the weekend. Free entry, but register online. So Tamil (December 21-22) This market features stands celebrating Tamil culture, arts and cuisine. Learn about the events of the Tamil community in Paris! [Note: the St-Ouen Marché aux Puces is just a short walk from here, check out my detailed recommendations for visiting the largest antique and flea market in the world.] Le Marché de Noël Afro-Caribéen (December 7-8) 116 rue de Turenne, 3rd arrondissement, metro Filles du Calvaire or République. Open 11am-7pm. Indoors. “The largest Afro-Caribbean Christmas market in Paris” features 70 stands artisans and brands representing Afro-Caribbean cultures: fashion, beauty, games, books, gifts, and gourmet food stands. There will be live fashion shows on Saturday at 4pm and 5pm, and a snack bar area if you get the munchies. Free entry, although check the website before going in case they offer “skip the line” passes again this year. Un Noël dans la Peau at the MAIF Social Club (December 6-7) 37, rue de Turenne, 3rd arrondissement, metro St-Paul or Bastille. Open Friday 2-10pm and Saturday 10am-7pm. Indoors. With a focus on sustainable and timeless gifts, this “Slow Christmas Market” features a selection of 16 young, original, and socially engaged brands in beauty, gourmet foods and drinks, clothing, books, children’s games, etc. There will be a voguing performance by choreographer Melvin Hans, and hot chocolate and Christmas pastries by SAIN Boulangerie for sale in their café. Bande de Créateurs (December 7-8) Bastille Design Center, 74 boulevard Richard-Lenoir, 11th arrondissement, metro Richard-Lenoir or Voltaire. Open Sat 10am-8pm, Sun until 7pm. Indoors. On the program for this weekend, 80 creators and artisans selling clothing, jewelry, leather goods, children’s items, ceramics, decoration, furniture and design, illustrations, zero waste products, food, beauty and well-being, games, and a selection of original pieces in limited editions, for a focus on French and sustainable production, natural and local products. HOBA,Parc Martin Luther King, 43 rue Bernard Buffet, 17th arrondissement, metro Porte de Clichy or Brochant. Open 11am-8pm. Indoors. HOBA is a contemporary event space and food court dedicated to “sustainable & joyful food”, nestled in the heart of the 10 hectares of the Martin Luther King park. Marché de Noël Végane (December 7-8) Discover a wide range of products and introduce your loved ones to veganism: healthy and delicious sweets (because we’re also are tired of the yule log…), clothes, cosmetics, gourmet foods, etc. There will also be four vegan chefs at the food court to enjoy some great food on the spot. Don’t forget to grab a Vegan Tourist Map of Paris from Franck! Marché de Noël des Arts Gourmands (December 15) A Christmas market focused on everything around food and feasts: “inspired illustrations, artisanal tableware, delicate ceramics, festive decorative objects and much more, for Christmas gifts full of flavor and meaning.” Ground Control, 81, rue du Charolais, 12th arrondissement, metro Gare de Lyon or Reuilly-Diderot. Open noon-8pm. Indoors. There are two “alternative” Christmas markets this year at this festive tier-lieu just behind the Gare de Lyon (read this article to find the entrance directly from the train station). Popular with young Parisians, there are many other fun events taking place here throughout the holidays, so have a look at their calendar (programmation) if you plan on stopping by. Braderie de Noël The Gros Marché (December 8) The vintage and creative designers’ boutique at Ground Control is having its big holiday sale today with 40 stands selling clothing for men and women, home décor, art, upcycled creations, and jewelry. Feminist Marché de Noël (December 15) This Christmas market will feature over 60 feminist creators offering a variety of artisan products, from unique artworks to handmade jewelry, books, posters, ethical textiles, and original fashion items. This is the perfect opportunity to support female entrepreneurs! There will also be a female comedy stand up show (€8). Le Hasard Ludique, 128 Ave St-Ouen, 18th arrondissement, metro Porte de St-Ouen, open noon-7pm. Outdoors. This concert hall, bar and restaurant in former train station is hosting a series of weekend holiday markets with 30 stands stretching along the covered terrace of the Petite Ceinture railway tracks. The bar and café of Le Hasard Ludique will also be open if you need to thaw out indoors (reserve your table in advance). Marché de Noël Latino (November 30-December 1) Browse a selection of entrepreneurs from France and Latin America, who offer you original, artisanal and modern creations. Clothing, accessories, decoration and gift ideas combining French charm with Latin American warmth in collaboration with LATAM* – L’autre Américaine Latine Grrrande : Marché de Noël (December 7-8) A unique selection of talented creators selling their illustrations, ceramics and crochet pieces, and other unique gift items. Grrrande is an initiative aimed at highlighting women and people from LGBTQI+ communities in different artistic fields. Ecovillage de Noël X Tunis sur Seine (December 14-15) A 100% eco-friendly Christmas Souk with creators, producers and contemporary crafts from Tunisia and other horizons. Concerts and DJ sets, artistic initiation workshops, brunches and culinary surprises, musical strolls in the souk and a raffle to make you win lots of gifts for the end of year celebrations. Live music concert on Saturday from 7-11pm (tickets €11 in advance here). Marché de Noël Résponsable des Canaux at Les Canaux (December 6-8) 6 Quai de la Seine, 19th arrondissement, metro Riquet or Jaurès. Open Friday 2-9pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm, indoors. Twenty engaged creators and merchants will be offering games and toys, cosmetics, fashion items and accessories, flowers, outdoor experiences, books, local arts and crafts, and gourmet products—everything to spoil loved ones and bring a personal touch to your gifts. All of the participating vendors fit strict criteria: from the Île-de-France region, local manufacturing, locally sourced reused materials, job creation, and professional integration. The café will be open throughout the day. La Cité de Noël at the Cité Fertile (November 30-December 22) 14 Avenue Edouard Vaillant, Pantin, RER Pantin, open weekends noon-7pm. Indoors/outdoors. This massive “Third Space” dedicated to sustainable living in the Parisian suburb of Pantin transforms into an XXL Christmas Village the first three weekends in December with over 80 stands of eco-friendly and socially responsible creators, sweet and savory street-food stands, a Nordic sauna (€8 for 30 minutes), oversized art installations, an oversized games area, live music and DJs, and different themes each weekend, such as The Gros Marché vintage market Nov 30-Dec 1. See the full schedule here. Entertainment Opera Garnier Concerts & Shows Sure, you could go to the Moulin Rouge if that’s really your thing, but Paris has an impressive selection of dance, theatre, circus, music concerts, cabarets and other performances throughout the holidays (even on Christmas and New Year’s Day), so it’s worth looking beyond the usual tourist shows. I couldn’t possibly list them all here, but here are some ideas of where to find the best listings. Although they started out specializing in French theatre shows with English surtitles (above the stage), Theatre in Paris now includes listings for all kinds of shows, from classical theatre and musicals to stand-up comedy and dance performances. They’re great for anyone who doesn’t speak any French, because they make it very clear whether any given show is in French, in French with English surtitles, in English, or if there’s no dialogue at all to worry about. If you’re planning on seeing the Eiffel Tower anyway, they’re selling tickets to the classical music concerts on December 24th, 25th, and 31st in the Gustave Eiffel Lounge (first level) for €99/person (elevator included) or €118 (elevator and Champagne included). You can also find them without the English “welcome” on Feverup’s website for €80/adults. If you want to explore even further, you’ll find pretty much everything available (searchable by category, date, price, etc.) directly on the ticket booking sites like FNAC (which also has physical ticket offices throughout Paris) or L’Officiel des Spectacles (which is also a small printed booklet sold at newsstands every Wednesday). Sites specifically for concerts include Feverup (which specializes in candlelight concerts), ClassicTic and Hélios (for concerts in churches), and Musique Sacrée de Notre Dame de Paris (Notre Dame’s choir singing at other venues). You can also search directly by venue if you have a favorite in mind (or one close to where you’re staying), such as the Opera de Paris (The Rake’s Progress), Théâtre des Champs-Elysées (The Snow Queen by the National Opera Ballet of Ukraine) Radio Classique Christmas Concert, and on December 1st is the Keynotes Gospel Choir at the historic College des Bernadins. Note that there are no concerts at Sainte-Chapelle before December 21st this season. There are two acrobatic circus shows (without animals) this season at the Pelouse de Reuilly in the 12th arrondissement, the Cirque Phénix’s “CirkAfrika” show featuring stars from the Circus of Ethiopia, “masters of power and grace for a result on stage that defies even more the elementary laws of gravity” and the Nouveau Cirque Mondial, which throws in every “death-defying” scene you can imagine. Other notable shows this winter include the Zip Zap Circus and the Collectif Petit Travers / Quatuor Debussy, both at the Parc de la Villette in the 19th arrondissement. For some saucy adults-only entertainment, the AirOtic Soirée combines precision acrobatics with erotic burlesque at the elegant Théâtre du Gymnase on the Grands Boulevards (shows Friday and Saturday night through January, plus December 31st; tickets €50-€165). And don’t miss Madame Arthur’s Xmas Party at the legendary Montmartre drag cabaret open since 1946! There are shows December 19th-22nd and 26th-28th, with tickets starting at just €20 (early bird, standing) to €120 (seated, with dinner and drinks). Come for the talented live musicians and performers, stay until dawn for the clubbing. 😉 Find more non-holiday-related December events on the Secrets of Paris Calendar. Paris Cinemas Paris cinema Movie theatres in Paris remain open on the holidays, including Christmas and New Year’s Day, when Parisians love going to catch the big blockbusters (this year it’s “The Lord of the Rings: The War of the Rohirrim”, Ridley Scott’s “Gladiator II”, and Marvel’s “Kraven: The Hunter”). But Paris also has an amazing number of indie and specialty cinemas, showing classics, retrospectives, and even silent films. You’ll find English-language films (marked “VO” if they’re in their original language with French subtitles, or “VF” for French dubbing) at cinemas all over the city including the Champs-Elysées, Latin Quarter, and the Forum des Halles. Movies come out each Wednesday and you can only see the schedule for the week in advance. Allociné is one of the best sites for finding the film you want in VO in a cinema near you (you may have to Google translate to read it, though). For a fun and hassle-free experience, don’t miss Lost in Frenchlation‘s screenings of current French films with English subtitles in independent movie houses all over France. In Paris they’ll be showing the French holiday classics, Le Père Noël est une Ordure and Les Bronzés font du Ski on December 10th. It’s only in French, but if you want to enjoy a beloved Parisian family tradition, check out the annual Féérie des Eaux laser-light-water-jet-music show at the historic Grand Rex Cinema (1 Blvd Poissonnière, 2nd), from November 27 through January 5th. The 20-minute show (celebrating its 70th year!) takes place in the elaborately decorated Grand Hall, with multiple levels of seating (see the trailer here), followed by a screening of the Disney film Vaiana 2 (dubbed in French). Tickets are €13 (matinées) to €18 (evenings); €15 for students under 26. You’ll want to be on time for this, people line up early! If you want to splash out a bit more cash, €35 gets you a VIP ticket with your own priority line, a special goodies box from the snack bar, and the best seats reserved just for you. Read more about going to the movies in Paris in the article, Paris Cinema: Everything You Need to Know New Year’s Eve on the Champs Elysées The City of Paris always throws a free party on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées to ring in the New Year (aka Réveillon de la Saint-Sylvestre), with a midnight countdown light show and fireworks on the Arc de Triomphe (the Eiffel Tower fireworks are only on Bastille Day). Check back in early December when City Hall announces details of the 2024 event. If You Go Get there early. The Champs Elysées will be closed to traffic starting at 6pm for the more than one MILLION pedestrians expected to attend. Certain metro stations will be closed for security reasons: Argentine and Charles de Gaulle – Etoile from 5pm; George V, Franklin D. Roosevelt and Champs-Elysées Clémenceau from 6pm; and Concorde and Tuileries from 8pm (you can still make connections there, but can’t enter or exit the stations). Wear comfy shoes, warm clothes, and keep your valuables tucked inside zipped pockets. There will be a security perimeter with bag check. The following are NOT allowed: dogs, knives of any kind (including Swiss knives and scissors), alcohol, glass bottles, fireworks or firecrackers, aerosol cans, helmets, and any kind of transport (bikes, scooters, skates, skateboards). forbidden objects Getting Around on New Year’s Eve The RATP (public transport) is free from Sunday at 5pm through Monday at noon, with all lines running until 2:15am. Metro lines 1, 2, 4, 6, 9, 14 and all RER lines A, B, C, and D will operate without interruption throughout the evening, but not all stations will be open between 2:15am-5:30am: December 31st metro map Taxis and Ubers are very difficult to get after midnight on the 31st if you haven’t booked one in advance…pack your walking shoes just in case! Some of you may remember the annual New Year’s Day Parade at noon on the Champs Elysées, but it hasn’t taken place for the past several years due to budget, security, and public health issues. Dining in Paris during the Holidays In France, where gastronomic meals are on UNESCO’s “Cultural Heritage” list, holiday meals are a BIG DEAL. The French traditionally celebrate with big family dinners on Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve (aka, Le Réveillon). Not everyone cooks at home, though, and Paris does have a spike in visitors over the holidays, so many restaurants will have special prix fixe “Réveillon” menus on those nights instead of their usual à la carte options (be sure to confirm when reserving to avoid surprises). Because everyone has splashed out (and overindulged) on the 24th and 31st, the actual Christmas and New Year’s Day meals tend to be more casual as the country nurses a collective hangover and crise de foie. Fouquet's on the Champs Elysées A hidden rooftop chalet at Le Roch Hotel Le Grand Colbert near Palais Royal Bouillon République northeast of the Marais La Coupole at Montparnasse Maxime's near the Place de la Concorde Where to Eat on Christmas Day and New Year’s Day The big dates for holiday meals – December 24th, 25th, 31st and January 1st – fall on Tuesdays and Wednesdays in 2024. It’s not easy for anyone, even journalists, to navigate the varying schedules of different establishments. Some may open on Christmas Eve but close on the 25th, or close Christmas Day but open New Year’s Eve, and others might shut their doors for the entire school holidays, December 21st to January 6th. Adding to this complexity, many restaurants are undecided until late November about their holiday operating hours and often do not accept reservations more than a month in advance. For visitors, this uncertainty can make planning a special holiday meal in Paris quite stressful. And it explains why online searches bring up the same list of restaurants that are consistently open year after year. I have confirmed all of the listings below in November 2024. I will update the list again in December. Brasseries & Bouillons (€€) Paris’s historical brasseries and bouillons are one of the most reliable places to dine non-stop any day of the year, and usually in beautiful settings for reasonable prices. They’re also known for their bustling, lively atmosphere, so a bit more family-friendly than more formal establishments. Brasserie Flottes – 2 rue Cambon, 1st (open Dec 24th, 31st, and Jan 1st) Le Grand Colbert – 2 rue Vivienne, 2nd (open daily) Gallopin – 40 rue Notre Dame des Victoires, 2nd (open daily; dinner reservations only possible by telephone) Brasserie Vaudeville – 29 rue Vivienne, 2nd (open daily) Bouillon République – 39 Boulevard du Temple, 3rd (open daily) La Closerie des Lilas – 171 blvd du Montparnasse, 6th (the brasserie and the more expensive restaurant are open daily; reservations for Dec 25th and Jan 1st by phone only) Bouillon Chartier Montparnasse – 59 boulevard du Montparnasse, 6th (open daily; doesn’t take reservations) Brasserie Thoumieux – 79 rue Saint-Dominique, 7th (open daily) Fouquet’s – 99 ave des Champs-Elysées, 8th (open daily; special menus Dec 24th and 31st) Chez Françis – 7 Place de l’Alma, 8th (open daily; special menus Dec 24th and 31st reservable by email or telephone: +33 (0)1 4720 8683. Publicis Drugstore – 133 Ave des Champs-Élysées, 8th (open daily; special menu for Dec 31st, reservations only via phone +33(0)1 4443 7764 / WhatsApp +33(0)7 8816 5016. Brasserie Lazare – Parvis de la Gare Saint-Lazare, 8th (only December 31st and January 1st) (online reservations system seems to be down, call +33 (0)1 4490 8080. Bouillon Chartier Grands Boulevards – 7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 9th (open daily, doesn’t take reservations) Bouillon Julien – 16, rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 10th (open daily; special menus Dec 24th, 25th, and 31st) Floderer – 7 cour des Petites Ecuries, 10th (open daily; special menus for Dec 24th, 25th, and 31st and Jan 1st) Brasserie Bellanger – 140 rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 10th (open Dec 24-26; closed Dec 31st, Jan 1st) La Coupole – 102 blvd de Montparnasse, 14th (open daily; special €79 menu for Dec 24th, €250 for dinner show on Dec 31st; almost fully booked for the 25th) Bouillon Pigalle – 22 Boulevard de Clichy, 18th (open daily ; spots almost full for 24th and 31st) Bistrots, Restaurants & Cafés (€€€) Le Mesturet – 77 rue de Richelieu, 2nd (open daily) Chez Julien – 1, rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 4th (open daily, special menu Dec 31st) La Tartine – 24 Rue de Rivoli, 4th (open daily) Verse Toujours – 3 ave des Gobelins, 5th (open daily) Breizh Café – 1 rue de l’Odéon, 6th and multiple addresses in Paris (open daily except for Dec 25th) Les Deux Magots – 6 Place St-Germain des Près, 6th (open daily) Mesa at HOY – 68 Rue des Martyrs, 9th (vegan; open daily; special menus on Dec 31st) Au Petit Marguery – 9 Blvd de Port Royal, 13th (open Tues-Sun; special menus Dec 24th and 31st) Le Coq Rico – 98 rue Lepic, 18th (open daily) Gastronomic Restaurants (€€€€) These are just a few of the restaurants open for dinner during the holidays. Note that almost every luxury and palace hotel in Paris also has restaurants open on Christmas and New Year’s Day, including the Four Seasons George V, La Reserve, the Ritz, the St-James, Le Plaza Athénée, Le Crillion, Le Meurice, the Peninsula, and the Shangri-La. La Tour d’Argent – 15 Quai de la Tournelle, 5th (open dinner only on Dec 25th-27th, special menu Dec 31st) Violon d’Ingres – 135 Rue Saint-Dominique, 7th (open daily) Madame Brasserie – Eiffel Tower, 1st floor, Champ de Mars, 7th (open daily, special menus Dec 24th, 25th, 31st) Les Ombres – Musée Quai Branly, 27 quai Jacques Chirac, 7th (open daily, special menus for Dec 24th, 25th 31st and Jan 1st) Le Gabriel at La Réserve Paris – 42 Avenue Gabriel, 8th (open daily, special menus Dec 24th, 25th and 31st) L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Etoile – 133 Ave des Champs-Élysées, 8th (open daily except for December 31st) Maxime’s – 3 rue Royale, 8th (open daily except Dec 24-25; reservations available online one week in advance) Le Train Bleu – Gare de Lyon train station, 12th (open daily except Dec 25th; special menus Dec 24th and 31st) Dinner Cruises I don’t usually recommend Dinner Cruises because the quality of the food isn’t worth the high price tag. But Le Calife is a nice setting with decent reviews, open daily except for December 25th, with a special Christmas Eve menu at €249 for adults and €119 for kids under 12, and a New Year’s Eve menu for €449. The Maxim’s Dinner Cruises have the same intimate, Belle Epoque atmosphere you’ll find in their restaurant, including a live jazz pianist. They’re open on January 1st with menus at €135 and €165. And if you can afford it, the Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse’s “Ducasse sur Seine” dinner (or lunch) cruises are available daily, with special menus on December 24th for €340 and €480, and December 31st for €540 and €760. All dinner cruises tend to book solid pretty quickly around the holidays. Dinner & Show There are a few other options to combine holiday entertainment with dinner, although, like the dinner cruises, these experiences aren’t necessarily known for the quality of the food as much as for the show you get to enjoy. Ciel de Paris on top of the Tour Montparnasse has a special Christmas Eve “Champagne dinner” for €190/person and a New Year’s Eve Champagne dinner with live music for €450/person. They have regular lunch and dinner service on Dec 25th and Jan 1st (they’re open daily throughout the holidays). The “show” here is the panoramic view over Paris! Double Fond is a magic theatre cabaret open in the Marais since 1988. They’re offering a Christmas Eve magic show with dinner on December 24th, €154/person, with one seating from 7pm-11pm. Their New Year’s Eve dinner show includes casino games, multiple shows where audience members get to learn and participate in the magic, then dancing until dawn, for €310/person (€254 for kids 5-12). Closed Dec 25th and Jan 1st, but otherwise open for the holidays. Madame Arthur’s Xmas Party, the legendary Montmartre drag cabaret mentioned in the Entertainment section of this guide, has optional dinner service at their shows on December 19th-22nd and 26th-28th for €120 (includes drinks). Other Holiday Restaurant Listings If you don’t already have your own list of favorite Parisian restaurants to check on, starting from scratch may seem a bit daunting. You can check on booking sites like The Fork/La Fourchette to search by date, style, price, and neighborhood. This obviously doesn’t list ALL restaurants in Paris, especially the trendiest or exclusive ones, but it will give you a huge selection (and sometimes discounted menus). Of course, ratings on sites like this that make a commission off of reservations aren’t 100% reliable (and I wouldn’t go near TripAdvisor). For actual reviews and recommendations by anonymous, experienced food writers, you can’t beat Paris By Mouth; subscribe to their newsletter to be notified when their 2024 holiday restaurant recommendations are published (with specific opening dates throughout the holidays). For vegan holiday markets, events and dinners, check out the article Very Veggie Holidays in Paris. Casual & Budget Dining Most of the cafés, delis, and casual restaurants will be open as usual in the eastern districts of Paris that have more of a multicultural population, such as Chinatown in the 13th and Belleville in the 20th. Central neighborhoods with a lot of tourists and students also tend to have lots of inexpensive places open, like creperies, Lebanese delis, and casual brasseries around Les Halles in the 1st, the Centre Pompidou in the 4th, the Latin Quarter in the 5th, and the Grands Boulevards in the 9th. The brasseries, kebab stands and fast food chains around train stations will also be open to accommodate travelers, so don’t worry about “everything being closed” on Christmas and New Year’s Day. But if you’re looking for something special, then definitely plan ahead and reserve your spot at least a week in advance. Tips for Making Reservations While reliable information is essential, securing a reservation is equally crucial. For those hesitant to make international calls, many restaurants now offer the convenience of online reservations. However, you’ll have to mark your calendar to check back after November 25th if reservations aren’t possible more than a month in advance. If their website says they’re open daily (or post that they have a holiday menu) but you don’t see the option to reserve online, call to double-check; they might be full, or they may only be accepting holiday reservations by phone. You may be required to give your credit card details to hold the reservation (to prevent no-shows). Even if you receive an email confirmation, it’s also often a good idea to call two or three days in advance to double-check your reservation (or cancel if you know you can’t make it). Midnight Mass & Spiritual Celebrations in Paris Sacré Coeur Basilica Eglise St-Germain-des-Prés Eglise St-Eustache Eglise St-Roch Notre Dame Cathedral, still under reconstruction Eglise de la Trinité In France, the principle of secularism has been a cornerstone since the 1905 law establishing a separation of Church and State. Despite this, cultural Catholicism remains a significant aspect of French society, particularly during Christmas. Many families, even those not regularly attending church, follow traditions like Midnight Mass following Christmas Eve dinner, or visiting the Christmas nativity scene. For many, these practices are more about cultural heritage than religious devotion. Most of Paris’s churches are also historical monuments that welcome curious tourists throughout the year, especially during the holiday season when there are beautiful decorations, choir and organ concerts, and elaborate nativity scenes (or crèches). These are open to everyone regardless of faith (or lack thereof), as long as you’re not conspicuously walking around or taking photos during services. Midnight Mass Most Catholic churches in Paris celebrate midnight mass on December 24th. Notre-Dame Cathedral is finally re-opening after five years of restoration works on December 8th, but due to the number of people coming from around the world for the occasion this Christmas, you may not be able to get a spot for Midnight Mass. But Paris has no shortage of alternatives in every neighborhood. You can go to the closest church to where you’re staying (and smaller neighborhood churches will be less crowded), but if you’re looking to celebrate in one of the grander Parisian churches, you can attend Midnight Mass at Eglise St-Paul St-Louis (99 rue St Antoine, 4th), St-Sulpice (Place St-Sulpice, 6th arrondissement) and the Sacre-Coeur Basilica (18th), all with services at 11pm; or St-Eustache (1st) and La Madeleine (8th) at 10pm. These may likely be ‘standing room only’ if you’re not there early. Candlelight Advent Services in December Lesser known by visitors, but much more magical (at least if you’re an early riser) are the candlelit Rorate masses celebrating Advent (December 1st-24th) in the weeks leading up to Christmas. Most Catholic churches have them, so if you have a church closer to where you’re staying, check for signs with information at their entrance. Here are a few around Paris (check back December 1st to confirm exact times for 2024): Eglise St-Sulpice (6th arrondissement) will have their 7am Rorate masses with 500 candles on December 4, 6, 11, 13, 18, and 20. Eglise Saint François-Xavier (7th arrondissement), has Rorate masses Thursdays December 5, 12, and 19 at 7:15am, followed by coffee and croissants in the Sacristie des Mariages. Eglise de la Trinité (9th arrondissement) has 7am Rorate masses Thursdays of December 5, 12, and 19 (followed by breakfast in the crypt). Saint Léon de Paris (15th arrondissement) has Rorate masses on Fridays of December 6, 13, and 20 at 7:30am. Eglise Saint-Pierre de Montmartre (2 rue du Mont Cenis, 18th arrondissement) will be celebrating them on Fridays December 6, 13, and 20 at 6:30am with Gregorian chant and organ, followed by petit-déjeuner. Saint Nicolas: December 6th Saint Nicolas’s festival day is mainly observed by Catholics in the northeastern regions of France like Lorraine and Alsace in honor of the patron saint of children (and the inspiration for the modern-day Santa Claus). The Basilica Sacré Coeur will have a special mass in his honor at 11am, followed by a procession of “Saint Nicolas and his donkey” through the streets of Montmartre distributing candy to children starting at 4:30pm in front of the Basilica and finishing at Eglise St-Pierre de Montmartre at 5:30pm (with mulled wine for the parents). Hanukkah: December 25 – January 2 The French Jewish community celebrates Hannukka (also spelled Hanouka or Hannouccah) in Paris with nightly candle lighting ceremonies in different locations around Paris. The Paris Discovery Guide has an excellent overview of where to celebrate the Festival of Lights in Paris in their article Hanukkah in Paris, and French Today shares all of the essential French Hanukka vocabulary. Finally, to visit the Jewish quarters of Paris and discover local Jewish history from someone who grew up in the Marais, check out Flora Goldberg’s Jewish Paris Tours. Practical Information Directions... Deciphering Holiday Opening Hours in Paris In 2024 Christmas Eve (December 24th) and New Year’s Eve (December 31st) both fall on Tuesday, with Christmas (December 25th) and New Year’s Day (January 1st) on Wednesday. Aside from a few museums that are normally closed on Tuesdays throughout the year, many smaller restaurants and shops may also be closed (or close early) for one or both holidays. When checking opening hours, you may see the following French phrases: Jours fériés: these are official French holidays when all municipal services and government offices are closed (what Americans might call “bank holidays”), including banks and post offices; the winter jours fériés are December 25th and January 1st. Vacances scolaires: these are the official school holidays, when many museums and family attractions have extended hours; in Paris the 2024 vacances scolaires are December 21 through January 6. Le Réveillon de Noël: Christmas Eve, December 24th, also called la veille de Noël. Le Réveillon de la Saint-Sylvestre: New Year’s Eve, December 31st, also called le réveillon du jour de l’an or réveillon du Nouvel An. Tip: I’ve noticed that some French people say Noël (or Christmas), when they actually mean Christmas Eve. I’m not sure if this is because many actually celebrate on the 24th (with the big family dinner and Midnight Mass), but when it counts, be sure to refer to the actual date of December 24th or 25th to avoid confusion when making plans. Essential Shops & Services Open on Christmas and New Year’s Day See the Sightseeing, Entertainment, and Dining sections above for restaurants, museums, monuments, activities, and shows open December 25th and January 1st (both fall on a Monday). Clothing and Gift Shopping: Aside from Le Samaritaine, most luxury department stores and malls like the Forum des Halles, Carrousel du Louvre and Beaugrenelle are all closed on December 25th and January 1st. Essentials: Convenience stores, tabacs (tobacco shops) and self-service gas stations (pay at the pump) will be open as usual. Food Shops: After the mobs shopping for the big meals on the 24th and the 31st, most supermarkets will be closed on the 25th and 1st. At least one bakery in your neighborhood is likely to be open, at least in the morning, but the rare open-air food markets open Wednesday will likely be closed. Convenience stores are available in a pinch, but if you want to find an actual supermarket, you may have to head to the city’s eastern neighborhoods with larger numbers of immigrants who don’t celebrate Christmas to find ones that are open. Public Transportation: The metro, RER, tram and bus lines will be running on the “jour fériés” (holiday hours) schedule (for the metro, it’s the same as weekend hours, until approximately 1:45am). You can check them in real time on the RATP website. Health & Safety Pharmacies: “Pharmacies de Garde” are the pharmacies that stay open on holidays, often later than usual. You can find these listed on the window of every pharmacy, or search one closest to you on the SOS Médecins website. There are only a few in town that are open 24/7 year-round: Pharmacie Européenne: 6 place de Clichy, 9th, metro Place de Clichy, tel 01 48 74 65 18. Pharmacie de la Porte de Montreuil: 2 ave de la Porte de Montreuil, 20th, metro Porte de Montreuil, tel 01 43 73 81 04. Pharmacie de la Place de la République: 5 place de la République, 3rd, metro République, tel 01 47 00 18 08. Pharmacie de la Porte Maillot: 68 ave de la Grande Armée, 17th, metro Porte Maillot, tel 01 45 74 17 31. Pharmacie du 13ème: 5 Bis ave d’Italie, 13th, metro Place d’Italie, tel 01 45 82 86 60. Emergency Doctors: SOS Médecins (tel 01 47 07 77 77) has medical clinics you can visit with a last-minute appointment online, and also make house calls 24/7 when you can’t come to them, but aren’t bad enough to call an ambulance (I’ve called for food poisoning and high fevers). If you’re not getting a response, call Samu (medical emergency) by dialing “15” or “112” from any phone (they speak English, too). Personal Safety: Don’t let the pretty lights and holiday spirit trick you into letting your guard down. Paris is still a big city, with pickpockets and scammers doing their own version of “holiday shopping”. Keep your valuables in zipped pockets, preferably inner coat pockets, when you’re visiting the busy Christmas markets, department stores and light shows. Young Parisians now wear fanny packs (aka “bum bags” if you’re British) diagonally across their chest, a great way to keep everything safe. If you’re renting a vacation apartment, another thing to look out for during the holidays is municipal workers (mail carriers, trash collectors) knocking on the door asking for holiday tips or selling calendars. Because so many scammers were posing as workers, this is now illegal, so don’t feel bad if you politely decline (best to not to open the door to strangers at all if you don’t have a safety bolt/chain). Read more general tips on staying safe here. Holidays Like a Local in Paris Inspirelle’s Holiday Cocktail Party – (December 17th) Inspirelle is the online community for busy, internationally-minded womaen who lives in or travel to Paris. Volunteering in Paris An Eco-Friendly Christmas Tree in Paris Learn about the Traditional French Christmas Menu (My Parisian Kitchen) Traditional Christmas Dinner Cooking Classes (Meeting the French) French Christmas Desserts Baking Class (Cook’n with Class) And if you’re in the mood for a different kind of Christmas story, gather around the fire with a mug of mulled wine (or two) and read Heather’s classic holiday tale: “Santa was a Pirate“ Suggestions? Corrections? Your feedback is welcome to help improve this Holiday Guide! heather@secretsofparis.com

UZBEKISTAN

Samarkand Zargaron restaurant Monday 1 P.M. upstairs level - near BK hotel View of the mosque Bibi Khanym Registan square is where we spend most time Go into mosque with golden ceiling Left side is more interesting - courtyard of medrasses are interesting Shah hi Zin complex - like Taj Mahal Pretty walk between Dinner - platan - reservation 19h 2 Pushkin street, Samarkand NOTES on Kiva Cafe zarafshon - 5 min from hotel - 1pm Minaret next to it - you can climb Number of owner is with Alma Manti - dumplings Dumplings folded in half Tasting platter - cheese Fried chicken plate and fries on wooden plate Japanese salad - eggplant salad Gumma or Gunna - tortilla type of bread - baked or fired 7:30 P.M. la teraza- sunset - Shashlik Their version of Gunna is really good Potato filled etc baklava - ginger tea ! The arc !!! Near la Terraza Arc climb to the top Find the Wal to walk up - north gate - ends at east gate Hotel is near west gate Where the harem is - has two entrances - make sure we go to harem and other side of palace - see both!! The silk carpet factory Buy pants in bazar

JAPAN 2024

IZU Peninsula Filipino friends recommended this park for water fun and at night it seems like it's a lantern festival. Granpal Illumination They also recommended Delfino for Italian food.

CROATIA SAILING

Hey Jessica, I still consider that week the best ever--I'm sure it would be a wonderful as a 30th bash! We used Sail Croatia (http://www.sail-charter-in-croatia.com/) and Ozren was our skipper/chef. Highly recommend hiring a combo skipper and chef, the eating experiences and easy logistics made it all the more magical. When you reach out, ask them to say hi to Ozren and Ivana from Marguerite Hancock and family from California--my mom has referred many friends :) Good luck! Channing

CHARTRES

CHARTRES You can visit Chartres cathedral north tower as individual or in group. The entry ticket is available on the service desk that situated in the north aisle. If you enter the cathedral from the Royal portal on the west, the service desk is just on your left side - do not be mistaken with the souvenirs shop. La boulangerie de Marlene 1 Place des Halles Food market Blvd Chasles until 13h Flower market Place du Cygne until 20h There is a mosaic house we missed last time Restaurant is excellent Restaurant MOULIN de PONCEAU